Subterranean Shoebox

Back in 1976 I went to see The Mousetrap on stage in London, with a friend. "We ought to go, because it might close sometime and we'll have missed it" she said. Agatha Christie had died that year, and the play had been going for 25 years, approaching it's 10,000th performance. We were sure the run was about to end.... but almost fifty years later, it is still going strong! So yes, I have seen it now [and no, I will not tell you whodunit]

Around about 2017, I saw that something new was opening in Norwich - the opportunity to go on a underground tour of a medieval shopping street near the Castle. "When we retire, I shall explore that" I said. During the Pandemic, it closed temporarily [as did The Mousetrap] but reopened again after Lockdown. Then there was an article in the paper - saying it was closing for good at Easter. I immediately looked at their bookings calendar to see if there was any way I could get there before I missed my opportunity. I got two tickets for Thursday February 8th, at 5pm. We got there, through delays because of rain and roadworks, at 5.01pm! 

I was a little anxious, Bob wasn't really sure where I was taking him - we parked in the Castle Mall Underground carpark, crossed the road, and entered what looked like a 1950s shoe shop. 

About a dozen others, also in thick coats and woolly hats sat round the edge of the room as our enthusiastic guide, Max, explained that was exactly what it was. James Pond opened his business in 1861 - and it ran till 2004. It was legendary in the city - supplying quality shoes to the wealthy, and keeping meticulous records of customers. One chap had his first pair of shoes from there at 5 months...and all the rest of his shoes from Ponds, till his last pair, bought on his 100th birthday. There was even a controversial Foot X-Ray Machine.

But we were not there for that - Max led us up some stairs at the back of the shop, and floor levels changed, "through that window is the old street". We peered out into the darkness, couldn't see much! But we learned about the history of the castle. How the Normans arrived, and burned down the wooden dwelling of the settlers who lived on the small hill.  Then they made those homeless guys dig a huge, 400 foot wide, very deep trench, all round the base of the hill and put the earth onto the top - making the Castle Mound. This massive ditch was there for centuries- originally meant to repel invaders. But after a while, people started living in this ditch, building homes, and shops...trading at the foot of the castle. 

500 years later, there were weavers. Not allowed to have candles or other naked flames [a great fire risk in closely built wooden houses] They put in long rows of high windows to allow maximum light at their looms. We stood in an upstairs room with such windows. Max told us to look out for weavers windows, they are all over the city! [this one on St Andrews Hill - grade 2 listed house] But then we went down, 

and down

and down - into the 'undercroft' area. We stood in a cramped area, many feet below busy the road outside - in what was previously called "Castle Ditch Street" [imaginative name!] 

Here were rooms which had been shops - and then shelters during the Blitz [hence bedstead] and storage rooms for Mr Ponds Shoeboxes. Utterly fascinating - dating back to pre Tudor times. 

We came round a corner and facing us, was a strange conical "lump" - whatever was it? One member of the team knew - an AUD [anti urination device!] There are many of these built into walks in Norwich. They were developed in Victorian times. If a bloke comes out of the pub and is desperate to relieve himself, he may look for a quiet corner like this. But this oddly curved conical structure will deflect his flow, splashing it back onto his clothes and shoes. 

Max told us so many anecdotes about Norwich and its past history.

Down another corridor Through a door, and suddenly we were under the stars, light rain coming down - this was one of the slum courtyards of the Victorians- 100 people linkved round this tiny area. Between the wars, the council demolished many of these - and tried to move the residents out to newer developments [like Mile Cross] it was an ill conceived plan, and caused much unrest. 

Down another corridor, and this one ended with a gateway into the main street, at ground level - but not I  the street where we began our journey - we had travelled some distance under the city. 

What a great evening. 

And the best bit - the project has had its lease renewed - and will be around at least three more years. They do so much more than just this tour, check them out here. I'd recommend it to anyone [providing they can manage steep, narrow stairs and low ceilings] I hope the Shoebox Experience has the longevity of The Mousetrap.